King Charles III England Coast Path: River Stour and Orwell estuaries (Harwich to Felixstowe)

My original plan to walk the coast of England allowed for the use of public ferry services across the estuaries, yet the new King Charles III England Coast Path has/will establish routes inland, along enchanting tidal waterways. I vowed to return when these paths opened, choosing to walk from Harwich to Felixstowe, around the River Stour and Orwell, not really knowing what to expect. The route would take 3 days, and 100km of walking, using a base near Ipswich Station. Starting at Harwich, I walked to the shore to see the Time and Tide Bell, by the artist Marcus Vergette (https://www.timeandtidebell.org/).

The tide was in, but in the still air, on a bright sunny day, the bell remained silent. It is perfect walking weather, with crystal clear skies, cool air and frosted paths. After clearing the urban and industrial port, I entered the Essex Wildlife Trust (Copperas Wood) and RSPB Stour Estuary reserves, through tranqull woodland and a paradise for bird watchers: crested grebes, pintail ducks, and brent geese enjoyed the still high waters, as whistling buzzards soared overhead, all to a background chorus of little birds singing with joy at the arrival of spring.

The KCIIIECP has yet to open to Manningtree, but will undoubtedly follow the Essex Way. The finest section at Wrabness is other worldly, with huge winter trees framing the southern banks, and hiding the impressive ‘A House for Essex’ art-house by Grayson Perry, guarded by yappy dogs and parked cars, but devoid of human occupants. It is a folly (which you can stay in), featuring the life of Julie Cope – a fictional Essex everywoman who features in many of his works. It fits perfectly into the landscape – part memorial, part church, a tribute to the people he grew up with. It resonates with me, as my brother lived nearby and my ancestors are from this part of Essex.

The paths are dry through the inland diversions, for coastal erosion has closed some sections. The sun sets gently and a chill quickly follows as I arrive at Mistley, through the new estates and backing woodlands, with old oak trees – notably ‘Old Knobbly’, an 800-year old oak that came second in the innaugural Tree of the Year competion in 2014. The wildfowl are roosting along the shoreline as I shiver towards the station to catch a train to Ipswich. It has been a glorious day to start the walking season: spring is defintely in the air.

I wake early for a long day around the Shotley peninsula from Manningtree to Ipswich, following the Stour and Orwell Walk, but diverting where I can see coastal footpaths, many eroded into the estuary, but with occasional beach options (difficult to follow and requiring climbs up crumbling cliffs – not recommended). The formal KCIIIECP has just opened from Shotley, so the path should be assured from there. It is another fine day, still chilled air, crystal skies, and frosty paths that slowly melt to mud as the day progresses. Like the Essex shoreline, there are delightful woodland walks and acres of rushland fields, that harbour birds and deer. This is really relaxing medative walking. I arrive at Stutton, which announces a distinctive Suffolk architecture and churchyard untouched by time. Seawalls follow as I deviate from the Stour and Orwell Walk route to venture along the shoreline and mudflats which will become the KCIIIECP when high-tide routes and bridges are placed. The birdlife is exception again, and I value the binoculars I carry. Avocets, Gadwall, Plovers, Redshanks, and many more. After climbing a sketchy cliff to avoid the marsh, the path eases to Shotley Gate for lunch. It is a lonely walk, with the unusual exception of a film set near Harkstead, which is filming the concluding episode of ‘Slow Horses’, the famous actors stopping for tea, while the enormous logistics of film crew prepare the set.

I walk around the marina, with close views of the colossal port and 400m shipping vessels. I am looking forward to the new path, but a sign announces it is closed! The options are ridiculous and will ruin the day, so I ignore the sign, only to find the route ahead is clear anyway. This is a blessing as the path is an easy seawall route, past bird resting areas (Colton Creek) to the NT woodlands around Pinmill. This is exceptional early spring walking, and using a bus service to Shotley would make for an excellent day walk. The Butt and Oyster pub looks tempting, but I continue towards the Orwell Bridge, chasing a coastal ship towards Ipswich docks. I can follow the marina path into the town after a weary but highly enjoyable 42km.

I cross the Orwell Bridge the next morning, and unpleasant but necessary experience, facing the lorries and morning commuters. Soon enough the path drops to the shoreline and the continuation of the KCIIIECP to Felixstowe. The light is ethereal, viewed from the elevated bridge crossing, that remains grey, clear and sharp as I enter yet more delightful woodland framed coast path into Orwell Park. The signs are all new, and the paths easy and assured into Levington, around yet more marshland and reed beds which must be heaven for the birds. The marina has a simple cafe, but I bought a cheese sandwich the size of a breeze block from the workers pop-up cafe on the Bourne Bridge, which takes a while to eat. Walking around Loompit Lake, full of grebes and dabbling ducks, I enter the Suffolk Wildlife Trust Trimley Marshes reserve, which is yet another stunning bird watching area. The diversity of birds, viewed from cosy hides, is quite stunning, perhaps the best reserve on the coast I have ever experienced. One field has 30 roe deer clustered at its centre; the stags eyeing my passage closely.

The irony of its position, so close to the parallel universe of The Port of Felixstowe, is profound. The APL Vanda, a 400m, 170,000 tonne vessel is docked. The wall of containers stacked on it decks is beyond comprehension close up, and this is not the largest monster vessel using the facility. The contrast with wildlife and global commerce is shocking as I walk through the port (diverted around a locked rail crossing) into Felixstowe Town. My throat takes on a dry pollutant taste, as fleets of articulated lorries carry their loads. It is a relief to reach the shoreline.

With time to spare, I walk to Languard Point and sit to finish the remains of the breeze block, and marvel at the port. A ship spotter, a retired man in a wheel chair, is full of enthusiasm for the arrival and departing vessels, and gives me a summary of the largest vessels that use the port, carrying an astonishing 24,000 TEUs (twenty foot equivalent unit) containers around the world. This invention must rival that of the jet engine, for the enablement of global markets, which have changed society dramatically since the 1960s. It has been a hard 30km, particulary the last 10k, so I take the bus to the station and return to Ipswich. I had planned to walk around the River Deben, but will leave that to another day, when the Bawdsey Ferry is running and the KCIIIECP is completed.

Overall, a highly recommended route. Anyone walking the coast should walk these estuaries. I plan now to explore the Solent, where I am sure to find more evidence of bird sanctuaries alongside massive shipping facilities.