With a little work, the Aberdeenshire coast could have one of the best coastal paths in the UK, with stunning cliff scenery, views over the North Sea, and the longest continuous beaches I have ever walked. If this could be achieved, then there would be a continuous route to Forres, when it connects to the Moray Coastal Trail at Cullen, and if the route to Inverness could be established, then Scotland would have a continuous coastal path along its entire eastern coastline that in my view, would challenge the South West Coast Path with its wild, rugged and utterly bewitching beauty.
Edging my way around the narrow sandcliff alongside the River Don, I was anxious about the tides, military ranges and soft sands to Newburgh, but I need not have worried. This is a glorious golden beach, with barely a soul on it, save for a lone mudlarker, collecting crockery and seaglass from the shoreline. His collection invites me to do the same and it is not long until I find a large piece of green seaglass which will find its way back to my writing desk in a week or so. It takes a good three hours to reach the bus stop in Newburgh village, to conclude a half-day to syncronise my schedules with accommodation further north. I rest a while before the hourly service, and take time to watch several hundred seals on the opposite riverbank. They are joined by several hundered eider ducks, taking a moment in the shelter of the river. This is an important breeding area, to the extent that orcas will pay a visit a few months after the pups are born. A local tells me they have been active this summer.
Returning in the morning, it is a short walk to the bridge across the River Ythan to walk across the Forvie National Nature Reserve to the church buried in the dunes. The path is good to Collieston, where you climb onto the cliffs again through rock stairs hidden in the car park. A local sign reassures me there is a good path to Cruyden Bay, but this turns into a rough walk, with broken bridges. This is adequately compensated by views of the stunning cliffs formations and coastal views. I drop to the sandy bay and walk to the bridge for a coffee and a toastie, both deserving the highest rating for a simple meal.
I explore Slains Castle before finding a path into and around a gorge to rejoin a path that keeps to the coastline, although the path becomes rough and bridges are definitiely sketchy. This leads past The Bullers of Buchan, impressive rock formations and arches, before weaving through old quarries and disused railines, before reaching Boddam, to walk under a power station and a promenade of sorts into Peterhead. The B&B is a delight, tartan carpets, porcelain scottie dogs and a decor from the 60s and 70s. I am made welcome, and given directions to a chippy, the first on this journey.
A good breakfast is needed for today, for I am about to walk some 30km to Fraserburgh, along what I consider to be the longest walkable beach in the UK. After crossing the memorial bridge, a vast arc of golden sand opens for the first 8 miles to Rattray Head, punctuated by the dramatic lighthouse, perched on The Ron rock outcrop. The walking so far has been easy going, with the exception of some soft sands, but as I turn the corner, I face a strong headwind which has been building slowly since 11AM.
This is tough walking now, but I have no option or real escape route. The river that drains the Loch of Strathbeg is fortunately fordable, and as I stop to put my shoes on, I notice several hundred grumpy seals resting on the shoreline. I tiptoe past them and they are on the edge of bailing into the sea, until my distance increases. They are a little more lazy than the cormorants, who will disperse even when you are 200m or so away, unlike the squadrons of gannets diving into the wild wave forms for lunch. This place is wild, I feel as if I am trapped in a nature documentary in the Antarctic.
I reach St.Combs, which is deserted, and walk on to Inerallochy, but am told I cannot ford the Water of Philorth for the beach to Fraserburgh. The alternative road walk is dangerous and busy, but with a little patience, and use of the gold fairways, I reach the town and find my cheap accommodation. It has been an amazing day, walking an estimated 13-miles of uninterrupted beach and meeting no one at all! That won’t happen again.
Now I head west and the terrain changes. I am expecting a lot of road walking to Cullen, but the initial paths are good to Roseharty and to Quarryhead, where I join minor roads to Clinterty and Pennan Farms, before descending to Pennan. This fishing village is recognisable as the film set for the wonderful Local Hero film from 1983. The postbox remains, and the character of the places is protected. It is a hard climb back to the road where I have no option but to slog it out until I can find a road to Troup Head, for I want to see the large gannet colony. It does not dissappoint, and the cliff views are tremendous. I find another path to Crovie Farm, and then descend again into Garedenstown to fill up with water and search for a wild camp.
The noise from the waves keep me awake, and it is a stiff climb back to a road that is another boring slog to Macduff, but at least the traffic is light and the fields and verges provide refuge when needed. After a late breakfast I wind my way through Banff and can follow NCN 1 to Whitemills and then rejoin the B9139 again for another irritating walk to Portsoy. It is safe, but it seems to me that a little effort and the castal route could be used, as I am sure some do. You only have to bypass a quarry near Boyne Bay.
The hostel/bunkhouse at Portsoy, the Sailloft, is a gem. Restored 8-years ago by a heritage trust, it is top accommodation for a weary walker. There are many like minded guests, and conversation flows, with people who are passionate about the outdoors in Scotland. I rest well, to enjoy a shorter day to Cullen, along good paths to Findlater Castle, where the path descends to the beach for a pleasant walk through ferns to some rock stairs that lead to Cullen.
While I wait for a bus, to take me to Keith, to connect with the rail network, I have time to explore the heritage centre, with its incredible handmade model of Old Cullen. The enthusiastic curators spend some time explaining a fascinating history of this fishing village. Something I must spend some time reading about. Its a long journey back to Inverness for an overnight stay before the LNER service back to Kings Cross. I’d like to have taken the sleeper, but getting a seat nowadays is difficult. Maybe this has something to do with the hoards of tourists in the city.
The next section will follow the Moray Coast Trail to Forres, then to Inverness to start the John o’Groats Trail north.
Trail Planner 