Scotland’s East Coast: Dundee to Aberdeen via the Angus and Aberdeenshire Coastal Paths, NCN1, and St. Duthac’s Way Pilgrim Route.

After pouring over maps of the east coast of Scotland, I hadn’t much hope of finding high-quality paths to Inverness, to pick up the John o’Groats Trail. Those expectations were exceeded on discovering the Angus and sections of the Aberdeenshire Coast Path, stitched together with the Sustrans National Cycle Route 1, and St. Duthac’s Way, a pilgrimage route between St. Andrews and Aberdeen Cathedrals. Dundee Backpackers is a excellent base for a few days, near to the rail station that has frequent services to Aberdeen.

Starting out from Dundee, I planned to make use of trains and buses and base myself in hostels, and use campsites where possible. The first day to Arbroath, followed NCN 1, along the River Tay, via Broughty Ferry, Monifieth and Carnoustie, was flat, if not a little monotonous. This path is busy with cyclists, many on e-bikes commuting to work in the city. It is an easy walk, with a few powerful works of art en route – notably Tay Haze by Lee Simmons, which changes organically, even if you move only a few inches to observe its human like form.

The route soon became more interesting, as the seascapes to Auchmithie provided dramatic scenery along a good cliffside path, after which, single lane walking via Ethie Barns, brings you to the stunning beach of Lunan Bay at Corbie Knowe. I managed to cross the Lunan Water river to the campsite for lunch, before picking up a network of roads to the Mains of Usan and a coastal path into Montrose for the train to Dundee. These roads are quiet, except for the occasional tractor pulling boxes of potatoes to warehouses.

I pay my respects to Bamse, a famous war time dog, that gave courage to sailors of the Norwegian Navy during WW2, before dropping down to Montrose Bay beach and walking towards St. Cyrus. This coastline is suffering increasing levels of erosion, but the tide is out and it is an easy walk to the mouth of the River North Esk, the border between Angus and Aberdeenshire. After a nights rain, it was impossible to cross, so I walked inland to cross the viaduct, avoiding rather sinister looking giant hogweed plants. I rejoined the beach to experience the Sands of St. Cyrus and met a local who gave me the correct exit point at Woodston Fishery, and information about the coast path beyond.

With care you could use the old path, but in bad weather, it is wise to take the inland field route to Rock Hall, where you can pick up a track to Tangleha’ Cottages. A path behind the shingle can then take you to Johnshaven, a pleasant and easy walk, which can be rewarded with a visit to The Lobster Shop. You can then follow NCN 1 to Inverbervie, which has a good campsite. It is a very friendly village that lifted my spirits, before the network of roads ahead. The bell like good mor ‘ning’ from every one I met took me to a dodgy section of the A92 to quieter lanes and Catterline, before joining the dreaded A92 again. The vergeways are walkable to Dunnottar Castle, where a good path takes you to Stonehaven. This main road was not as scary as I predicted, with good paths alongside the roadway and can be shortened by walking to the junction at Uras, compared with the St. Duthac’s Way GPS route I had downloaded, which suggested I follow the NCN1.

After a nice brunch and some time to see the local works of art that decorate much of Stonehaven, I walked to join the A92 dual carriageway to Muchalls, which once again, was reasonably safe walking, with a generous cut grass verge. After this there is a good path to Porthelen, and a train which takes me to an Aberdeen city base for a few days.

Using the NCN1 again, you reach Cove Bay, where a formal Aberdeenshire Coast Path takes you into the city, via Nigg Bay and alongside the surprisingly narrow harbour entrance. This is good coastal cliff scenery, until the north sea service vessels and ferries dominate the scene. Walking around them to reach the fishing port of Footdee (lovely quaint fishing cottages), you rejoin the coast to walk along a promenade of sorts to the mouth of the River Don, which marks the start of a 10-mile beach to Newburgh, which is an excellent taster for what lies ahead. A bus returns me to my accommodation, packed with football fans off to see a match at Pittodrie Stadium.

So far, so good. Better than expected.