Walking around the Isles of Scilly (the best section of the English coast not on the King Charles III England Coast Path)

It seems ironic that some of the best coastal walking in England is not on the King Charles III England Coast Path – doubly so, considering much of the Isles of Scilly is owned by Duchy of Cornwall, bestowed to his eldest son and heir, HRH The Prince of Wales. Having completed the KC3ECP a month ago, this archipelago, 27 miles from Lands End, is a fitting end to my coastal journey. Walking around St Mary’s, Bryher, St. Agnes, Gugh, Tresco and St. Martin’s introduces you to Britain’s finest seascapes, white sand beaches and coastal scenery. It is 33 miles of walking, taken leisurely but punching way above its weight.

With a campsite base at the Garrison campsite (and others on the islands), it is a short walk to the morning island ferries at the quayside run by the Boatmans Association. The return services leave plenty of time to walk each island, stopping for lunch and perhaps a swim – if you can brave the crystal clear, chilling Atlantic waters (13C in July). As soon as you step along the easy-going path, you will leave the crowds behind, and if the wind is slight, enjoy the silence and tranquillity far from the bustle of mainland life – a silent Scillonian Sunday is a memorable experience.

This quartz-flecked felsic rock and seashell shores frame gorgeous beaches and aquamarine shallows. The rugged, pink granite assures grip on any sole where the grass paths give way to the underlying geology. Navigation is easy, and the path is mostly level and good quality, with only an occasional ascent to raise the heart rate. Overgrown ferns may impede the path, but this is relaxed terrain compared to the South West Coast Path, with hardly any steep ascents (the highest point on the IoS is 51 metres). Every mile will be beside exotic flora – agapanthus, allium, echiums, birds-foot-trefoil, three-cornered-leek, narcissi and many others. Not a subject I know, but now I am intrigued by the wealth of flowers that looks as if they belong on another continent.

St. Agnes (~10km) is the most westerly inhabited island, with views over the Atlantic and the iconic Bishop’s Rock lighthouse. The Turk’s Head pub is a perfect stop before walking around Gugh if the tide allows. This cairn and the barrow-covered island is a favoured breeding ground for lesser black-backed gulls, their black fluffy chicks perfectly camouflaged in the shoreline rocks. With rarities guaranteed, this island would keep any birder happy for hours in the shoulder migration months. A seriously lost red-footed booby was seen recently. The views to Annet, with breeding puffins and petrels, is an uninhabited gem framed in the chain of shipwrecking Western Rocks. It demands you sit awhile and take in the raw power of the ocean which can be felt even in the slightest sea state.

Bryher (~7km) is more relaxing, with inviting swimming beaches in good conditions and several superb cafes and restaurants. The views of Round Island lighthouse and into the Crow Sound are spectacular, the variating colour of reflection of light intense and joyful if the sun is out. To the south is Samson, which can be reached by hiring a boat or, on rare tides, by wading (a guide is needed) across. It would have next-level relaxation if I could have done so, and it would have to wait for another visit in the future. Waiting for the ferry at the pier invites a quick dip, which many found too cold for anything braver above waist height.

Tresco (~10km ) has a different vibe; you can smell the wealth. It has an air of exclusivity but is open to all. The coast path is longer, but the beaches can be easily walked at low tide. The northern end is rugged and faces the northern swells. The views improve with each metre of elevation, giving views of the islands to the south. A shortcut across the islands provides a contingency if you are waylaid on the shell-lined beaches looking for cowries. The litter of beautiful shells unpicked, decorating the high water mark – something to be photographed and not collected as they lay on a beach that reflects an intense light from the silica slivers of rock in the sand. The eastern beaches are intensely beautiful and peaceful and an ideal finish to the ferry on the southern tip which will bring you back to St. Mary’s. Tresco is worth a second day if you want to stop for a boozie (expensive) lunch and wander around its famous gardens.

This leaves the last outer island of St. Martin’s, where I stayed for 3 nights at the campsite. The circumnavigation is perhaps 10km at most, exploring every option, and another 2km if you can cross to White Island. The distance is irrelevant, as you can quickly lose 4 hours stopping to bathe, picnic or gaze across the channels and seas. You may just glimpse Cornwall on a clear day from the Day Mark or the Seven Stones lightship, which guards the treacherous reef where the oil tanker Torrey Canyon foundered in 1967. Once again, and in common with all the islands, the beaches amaze, and the sunsets startle – reason enough to stay on the islands if you can. Don’t forget the nighttime, too, as this is a dark skies paradise with intense milky way views, interrupted only by the sweeping lights of the lighthouses.

Back in Hugh Town, you can now walk the 16km (including Garrison peninsula) of St Mary’s in 4-5 hours and sample pre-historic villages and burial grounds, beaches (of course), coastal promontory rocks and views of the island networks, with many isolated rocks islands and sand bars. While not as impressive, it is a well-established route and easy walking – a lazy day finishing again in the town, perhaps before catching the afternoon ferry to Penzance.

Accommodation can be expensive if you can find anything at peak times, but going as a backpacker with a tent is a practical option. Gas fuel is available everywhere, and most sites are protected by tall hedges should a storm roll in. Seagulls can steal your food, and the local thrushes, blackbirds and sparrows are overly friendly, but this is paradise if the weather is good. Highly recommended to anyone who wants to sample some of the finest coastal scenery in the British Isles.